| The
Story of Khaki
By Maxwell Pereira
maxpk@vsnl.com
Khaki
has ruled me since the time I joined school even before my fifth
birthday. The students’ uniform at St Aloysius – the
alma mater which shaped my formative years for the next twelve
years, was a white shirt tucked inside khaki shorts. And then
in the Boy Scouts even the shirt turned khaki with a blue scarf
round my neck and badges of green thrown in for colour. Later
when I joined the NCC, it was full khaki again, with only the
shorts replaced by long trousers.
From
college stepping into the big bad world, fate willed me khaki
again in the Indian police service, which I joined. A foray for
a while into the black-coats world of the legal fraternity, in
between, did not really last too long. And now that in the superannuated
state I no longer have the stamp of khaki on me, my curiosity
has got the better of me to really know something on khaki!
The
story of khaki goes back to its origin from the Farsi or Persian
word khak (dirt). Prior to British colonization, Persian was a
widely used second language in our Indian subcontinent. While
for India’s present generations it is a forgotten entity,
Persian today continues to be spoken in Iran, Tajikistan, Afghanistan,
Uzbekistan, Bahrain, Iraq, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, Southern
Russia, neighboring countries, and elsewhere. In pre-British India
it took prominence as the language of culture and education in
several Muslim courts in the subcontinent throughout the Middle
Ages and became the ‘official language’ under the
Mughal emperors.
As
British influence spread through the land, from 1832 onwards the
colonial powers forced the subcontinent to begin conducting business
in English instead of the traditional Persian. While doing so,
they did not hesitate to borrow and assimilate into the English
language a considerable lot of the local vocabulary and especially
such as described native names, mores and attributes. And so the
entry into the English language the Persian word khak-i (dust-y)
through its equivalent Hindi/Urdu loan word meaning earth-coloured
or dust coloured.
In the mid-1800s, British soldiers in India in search of camouflage
against hostile surroundings began dyeing their white uniforms
to a dusty colour using anything from muddy water to tea. Soon
they came upon the discovery that locals were using a reliable
dye called Cutch in their cotton fabric industry for calico-prints.
The dye created the colour of khak, an Indian word for dust, earth,
and ashes.
But
cutch, they further discovered, was the same as the astringent
‘catechu’ – an extract from the local khair-tree
considered native to the Indian sub-continent and especially to
an area extending from Pakistan to Burma. Catechu was prepared
by concentrating a strong aqueous decoction of the reddish inner
wood of the khair-tree, and pouring it into square clay moulds
to dry. And this Catechu was a medicine used to treat oral ulcers
and gum diseases, diarrhoea and dysentery, and chronic catarrh
(inflammation of the mucosal membranes). Even singers dissolved
small pieces of catechu in their mouths to relax the throat and
treat laryngitis.
The
British credit Lieutenant (later Lieutanent-general and eventually
Sir) Harry Burnett Lumsden as the inventor of Khaki. In December
1846, Lumsden founded the Corps of Guides – a regiment that
would be stationed at Mardan on the Peshawar border, which was
to be composed of trustworthy men to act as guides for troops
and to gather intelligence. To outfit his men, Lumsden is said
to have originated the first official khaki uniform. The cotton
twill uniform wore well, did not show dirt as easily as white,
and was not as easy a target as white, red, or black.
There
is a mention in Byron Farewell’s “Armies of the Raj”
that khaki-coloured uniforms were used officially for the first
time during the Abyssinian campaign of 1867-68, when Indian troops
set out under the command of General Sir Robert Napier to release
some British captives and to "persuade the Abyssinian King,
Theodore, forcibly if necessary, to mend his ways".
All
British troops in India ultimately adopted khaki in 1885 in preference
to the previously used white as the tropical colour. But even
before that, Khaki had already become the symbol of British colonial
power when with the enactment of the country’s criminal
laws and especially the Indian Police Act in 1861, it became the
standardised colour for the uniform of all the police forces through
the length and breadth of the British administered territories
– represented as the strong arm of the ruling power. That
khaki was already in use for sepoys and kotwals under the existing
principalities may also have contributed to this move.
Soon in the African continent the Boers too used khaki clothing
as camouflage in the First Boer War, and in the Second Boer War
the British did as well. Then during the Spanish American War
in 1898 the United States Army adopted khaki. By World War I,
the military added a green to cutch creating an olive-drab greenish
tan or sand colour – so that soldiers would not standout
against the surroundings of the European theatre. Khaki has since
become de rigueur for military uniforms of militaries the world
over, as well as for police forces of many South Asian countries,
as also for American states and counties too.
Spread
to civilian clothing, where ‘khakis’ since the 1950s
has meant tan cotton twill trousers, nowadays khaki is a standard
color for semi-formal dress pants. Although ‘khaki’
is also incorrectly used to describe a green colour similar to
Asparagus or Pale Sea Green – especially by the linen/textile/lingerie
industries, civilian khakis today come in all ranges of colours,
and the term seems to refer more to the particular design or cut
of the trousers.
July
10, 2006: 950 words: Copy Right © Maxwell Pereira: 3725 Sec-23,
Gurgaon-122002. You can interact with the author at http://
www.maxwellperira.com and maxpk@vsnl.com
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